How to sew Barbie® clothes - Part 2 - sewing the garments
Now that you’ve got your pattern traced and cut out it’s time to sew garments for that 11-1/2" fashion doll. Part one covered general tips and pattern preparation, and part two covers tips for sewing Barbie® clothes using a sewing machine.
Keep these tips in mind as you follow the pattern instructions and you'll save yourself both time and frustration. A bit of practice tempered with patience and you’ll be producing runway worthy fashions for Barbie® in no time.
Ditch the serger. Sergers are great time-savers, but not for doll clothes. They’re simply the wrong tool for this type of sewing as they are too large for you to control the tiny seams. You may be tempted to use them for, say, a long skirt seam, but don’t. The resulting seam will be too bulky.
Don’t remove pattern pieces. Don’t unpin the pattern pieces from the fabric until you’re ready to sew them together. Due to the size of the pieces, at times they can be hard to distinguish from one another and you can easily sew the wrong pieces together. Trust me; you don’t want to rip out the stitching on these little things.
Take time to pin. Until you become very familiar with sewing tiny clothes, take time to pin the seams before sewing. It will help keep the pattern pieces lined up properly. Believe it or not, when you’re working with something that small, being off just 1/8” of an inch can affect the entire garment.
Shorten your stitch length. When I sew my own garments, I typically use a 3.5 mm stitch length, which is short enough to securing hold my garment together yet long enough to easily rip out if I make a mistake. You’ll need to use a short stitch length when sewing doll clothes because you’re working on small areas.
1/4” seam allowances. Most of the patterns are designed with 1/4” seam allowances and using a 1/4” pressure foot (a small quilting foot) will help you sew accurately.
Use flat construction. This simply means to sew pieces together flat whenever possible. Your goal is to avoid the need to sew in small circular areas. For example:
- Top or bodice: Sew the shoulder seams. Finish the neck edge, by hemming, adding lace or sewing on a collar. Finish the center front or center back. Finish the sleeve edges or add a sleeve before sewing the side seams. If this is the bodice to a dress, sometimes it’s easier to sew the skirt front and back to the bodice before sewing the side seams. The pattern you choose will make that determination.
- Sleeves: Finish the bottom of the sleeve hem and then sew the sleeve to the armhole opening before sewing the underarm and side seam. Could you imagine trying to sew a sleeve into that tiny armhole opening?
- Pants: First, sew the side seams. Hem the bottom of the pants. Next, sew the center front and center back (don’t forget to leave an opening at the center back) and finish the waist edge. Lastly, sew the inner leg seams.
- Casings: Elastic casings are popular in doll clothes – including casings at the waist and at wrists. Always add your casing and elastic flat unless you enjoy wasting hours in frustration as you try and insert elastic into a tiny casing and circle. Secure the elastic in the seam allowance before sewing the seam or your elastic could pop out as the garment is placed on and off the doll.
Elastic. You can certainly make the small casings and insert elastic in the same manner you would for children’s and adult’s garments. However, I have found it much easier, and more durable, to zigzag over soft 1/8” elastic for a similar effect. Rather than cut the elastic to the needed length, mark it with chalk or a pin. Gently stretch the elastic as you zigzag, ending with the marked piece at the seam edge. Cut off the rest of the elastic. Otherwise it can be difficult to sew that last fraction of an inch in place.
Neck edge facings. Some patterns will include facings for the neck (and waist) edges. These look absolutely adorable and can actually be easier to add than a tiny hem. Instead of finishing the facing edge with a hem, consider fray check with the fabric has a tendency to ravel. The easiest way to finish the neck edge is to line the bodice. Added bonus? The doll’s outfit will look very professionally sewn.
There you have it! The basic tips for successfully sewing Barbie® clothes. Next week I’ll finish with a few tips on trims and closures.
In the meantime, if you have any questions on the tips, or specific questions that I didn't address, please leave a comment so I can help you out.
Happy sewing!
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